Food quote of note

"The purpose of life is to live it, to taste experience to the utmost, to reach out eagerly and without fear for newer and richer experience"…Eleanor Roosevelt

Thursday, January 24, 2013

Adventures in CandyLand

So, I just have to warn you now - this will be a long post -- I can't help it, I have so many great pictures of all the colorful candy we've made this week with Chef Pierre in Confisserie/Confectionary class...so get ready...

This week I switched to morning labs - had to be in the kitchen at 6 am...that was a little bit of a schock to my system, I must admit.  Woke early this week to snow, although it's hard to see when it's that dark out...luckily I don't have far to go - just have to scurry from the Chateau to the kitchens in the next building...


Here's the view from our kitchen window...as it gets a little later in the morning and a little lighter, we watch Yssingeaux get blanketed with snow while we work!


This week we learned multiple techiniques for making a variety of sugars, candies, confections and bonbons.  Chef Pierre was a great guy - easy going and full of great tips and tricks, including some interesting details on the science of why things work the way they do in confectionary.


We worked each day to make trays of confections, working with sugar, cream, nuts, dried fruits, chocolate, fruit purees, gelatin and many other tasty ingredients.

We made some very traditional French confections such Pralines Rouges - almonds surrounded by a crunchy, sugared coating....

...nougat (almonds and pistachios embedded in a chewy, sugary white base)...


...and fruit deguises (flavored almond paste, or marzipan) which is surrounded by dried/candied fruits and nuts)... 

...and then dipped into a hot sugar mix, leaving it with a glistening, crunchy coating.


To contrast with these very traditional confections, we tried our hand at some more modern and whimisical treats...

...such as bonbons gelifies - a cross between a Gummi Bear and a Sour Patch kid - a flavored gel cast in a mold and then covered in a sugar (sweet) and citric acid (tart) mix...



...and lollipops...seriously, how can you have a bad day when you get to make lollipops in class?



And, of course, we worked with chocolate - instead of focusing on tempering chocolate, this week we learned how to craft different types of chocolate treats and learned  various techniques for decorating them (that's means we go to use the chocolate machine - YIPPEE!!). 

We made molded chocolate bonbons - bonbons moules framboise - an amazing chocolate delight -- a rich, deep chocolate-raspberry ganache center surrounded by a milk chocolate coating...



We also learned to dip chocolate...first we made a pistachio/almond paste, which we rolled out and then dipped in milk chocolate... 


 
 
...next we made a second dipped-chocolate treat - this time it was a roasted almond and hazelnut paste that was rolled out, dipped in dark chocolate and finished off with an applique consisting of our ENSP logo.


There is alot of science behind making confections - and one of the most important things is cooking your candy to the correct temperature...


If you hit just the right temperature, your caramel is soft, smooth and easy to cut into pieces...


...unfortunately, I learned the hard way that just one or two degrees too hot can leave you with a hard, brittle caramel!  Oh well!


One of the other great things about this week is that it was fun...you got to play with fun shapes, colors and cool gadgets!  We made one of my husbands favorites - Pate de fruits - or fruit pastes. These are yummy little squares of fruit flavor - they're quite simple to make using fruit purees, sugar, pectin and citric acid.  You cast the fruit mix into a square mold - and, when it has gelled, you cut it into squares using this nifty gadget called a guitar - it uses wires to slice through all sorts of candies and sweets......


...leaving you with nice, even squares that you then toss in sugar.


 
Our other super-fun adventure was making marshmellows -- or guimauves, in French - in bright colors and fun flavors such as lavender, cassis, and absinthe...big, fluffy clouds of sugar and egg whites that turned into light, airy, spongy treats...




...these delicate masses were then cut on the guitar and tossed in a mixture of powdered sugar and cornstarch. 


 
 
So, finally it was the end of the week and we started getting ready for our buffet.  We had an entire rack full of trays and trays of confections - the job now was to get them ready for viewing (and tasting) by our peers and chef instructors.  It was a team effort, with everyone working to put together a beautiful display...assembling tray after tray of colorful sweet treats...
 
 




 
 
Chef Pierre even made us a chocolate display stand for our lollipops...
 

 
And finally, the buffet was ready.  Quite frankly, we were thrilled - our class loved it! It was fun, colorful, tasty - a mix of traditonal flavors and colors, with some new, modern and fun elements thrown in...we were pretty proud! 
 

 
 
Well -- don't say I didn't warn you - I told you this was going to be a long post!  But, now you see why I couldn't help myself - these pictures, these confections and this week deserved it's due!  It was a great week - I feel like I really learned alot, mastered some basic confectionary techniques and had a blast!  Our confiserie were pretty, tasty and fun - what more could you want?

Sunday, January 20, 2013

My Week in Chocolate


So, this week's topic was chocolate...lots and lots of chocolate....dark, milk, white...you name it and I worked with it...and had it all over me at some point during the week!!!

Our focus this week was quite simple...we were to learn to temper chocolate...so we practiced...and practiced...and practiced! Our chef instructor, Regis, taught us the basic techniques of tempering chocolate...melting it to exactly the right temperature over a bain-marie (water bath), then working it on the table with a spatula and scraper until it cooled to exactly the right temperature (tabling it), then heating it back up on the bain-marie again to yet another temperature before starting to work with it. All these steps are necessary to achieve a smooth chocolate with a lovely shine....too hot or too cold and you can end up with thick, grainy chocolate or a dull, chalky finish. Each type of chocolate has its own set of temperatures that are required for tempering. We worked most of the week making simple, molded pieces out of the various types of chocolate...and once we made them, we melted them down and did it again..and again...and again, s'il vous plait. I know it seems like this should be quite easy, but, believe me, it took awhile to get the hang of tabling the chocolate and managing to keep it at the right temperatures.

Below is Chef Regis, showing us how to mold dark chocolate after tempering it...he makes it look so easy!!



It took me awhile, but I finally got the hang of it...





Sometimes my molded pieces turned out perfectly - releasing easily from the mold, no cracks, even thickness and a nice, shiny exterior...







But sometimes...not so much! Below is a picture of what can happen when you turn your back for JUST A MINUTE on a bowl of chocolate on the water bath!
 
And, unfortunately, not every piece wanted to come out of the mold.... C'est la vie!




In addition to our simple molded shapes, we also learned some techniques for making hollow, filigree chocolate shapes as well as silver (or gold, or copper, etc) coated chocolate...very pretty.





By Thursday, we were finally done practicing our tempering skills, and we were to mold our final pieces and work on assembly of shapes and figures.  At that point Regis took pity on us and finally let us use the chocolate machine instead of tempering by hand...yes, you read that right...I said chocolate machine.  Did I mention that there is a chocolate machine in our lab that keeps kilos of chocolate melted and tempered to exactly the right temperature - it's like a giant, industrial chocolate fountain - with perfectly tempered chocolate just streaming from it constantly?  We, of course, were not allowed to use it earlier in the week - since we were supposed to be focused on fully mastering the foundational techniques of tempering chocolate!  Finally, however, Regis let us use chocolate from there to mold our final pieces for assembling for our buffet...


The chocolate machine

Regis put 5 (basic) designs up on the board for us to choose from that could be assembled from our basic round/egg/square pieces - a cow, a goat, a worm, a Chinaman and a penquin - we each had to pick two.  I picked the goat and the Chinaman.  We molded our pieces, used melted chocolate to stick them together then added adornment such as eyes (which we piped using white and dark chocolate) and the items such as tails, horns, legs, etc.  Now, I know this seems very simple and, honestly, I know these pieces look like they may have been assembled by a group of 3rd graders..but, it's really not all that easy!  We worked for hours on these pieces - really, hours!




So, here he is...my creation, my labor of love, my chocolate goat - made out of molded dark chocolate, spray painted with a white chocolate glaze, with horns, legs, etc made out of Chocolate Plastique (Plastic Chocolate - kind of like chocolate Play-Doh). 

 




The good news - he stayed together - several of my classmates had various pieces and body parts of their creations bouncing across the tables because they had not sufficiently melted the chocolate to adhere the various shapes...luckily, my goat held together.

The bad news...he looks a little crazed...I think it's they eyes.  I had a pair of lovely, matched eyes I had piped for him, but unfortunately one of them got too hot and melted...so I had to get another eye from a classmate, and it doesn't quite match.  Oh well, I think he has a certain rogue-ish French charm....a certain goaty "je ne sais quoi", if you will.


Finally, by Friday evening we assembled our final pieces and several of the other items we had made during the week and organized them for our buffet...although this week it was more of a viewing than a buffet, since we couldn't really eat the chocolate pieces while they were being displayed.  




And, when it was over, we broke them up and put them all back in the chocolate machine for the next class to work with...only, of course, after they learn the basics of tempering by hand!




Don't worry, though - I couldn't do that to my crazy French goat - instead I took him up to my room with me - as a matter of fact, he's sitting here on the table keeping me company...staring at me with one eye while I write this post!

Quite the week - I learned alot about chocolate, made a mess of two chef's jackets (I'll be headed to the laundromat this weekend with stain stick in hand) and got a pet goat - what more could a girl ask for?  We start confiserie (confectionary - candies) next week - who knows what I might end up with next Friday?